MoCHILEando: December

The task of publishing 3 months worth of travels all in one go was frankly pretty intimidating. Which led me to publish nothing. So I've decided that it was probably worth publishing what I did have. 
My journing southwards began with the Capoeira crew, heading off in the car to Valdivia for the "bautizo" - when everyone who wants to go up a grade can do so and is presented with their new "cuerda". It also serves to reunite students with masters, share techniques, and most of all get all the old and the new together to play and have a got time. This section ends in Coyhaique... Just in time for xmas.  

Stage 1: Moving and throwing shapes

05/12/14 : Concepción - Valdivia
Mode: car

Got up bright and early after not enough sleep following drinks in the flat and make the 30 minute trek to Oso's house to meet the capoeira boys in time to leave at 9.30. Two hours later and we were finally on the road to Valdivia for a weekend of capoeira, partying and a fair bit of climbing thrown into the mix. Road trip!!!

10/12/14 : Valdivia - Puerto Varas
Mode: bus

The boys had all left and despite having a great time with some new friends, it was time to leave. After killing time most of the day waiting to hear from Andrea and Rodrigo they finally got in touch around 5, but unfortunately I couldn't make it onto their route in time to join their lift so I got my things together and raced to the bus station to get the next bus to Puerto Varas to meet them. Arriving at 10, I shared a taxi with some fellow passengers right up to the hostal where we were camped out the back.

Stage 2: Three's a company, four's a crowd, but still not too many to hitch with.

11/12/14 : Puerto Varas - Valle Cochamó

Mode: hitchhiking/trekking

My first hitching of the trip and the most noticeable thing walking out of town (other than the beautiful surroundings and architecture) was that we really weren't used to carrying that much weight. 15kg of backpack plus food. Ouch.

We weren't waiting long for our lift and we got some good tips for the next leg of the journey. Overall a good start! A road worker took us from the crossroads before a giant truck took us the rest of the way to the town. Just a little bit terrifying on narrow, single track, windy roads and wooden bridges but we made it

It soon became apparent that getting to Cochamó was more than just a hitchhiking away - try a 4hour trek from the town! But we could at least get closer to the trail. Fortunately our next lift were also heading up and were much better informed than us. They were also kind enough to wait whilst we shed our excess weight to leave in the town and we walked up all together. It was hard going, but beautiful, and definitely worth it. 

We ended up wild camping before reaching the valley, and lying out under the starts with Andrea, Nico, and Sara after a good game of dixit was one of the most magical nights I've had. The following days saw us arrive in the valley and head off on some amazing treks (with a little climb thrown in).

14/12/14 : Valle Cochamó - Puerto Montt
Mode: trekking/bus

Headed down the valley - much easier than going up! Picked up the stuff we'd left at the bottom and headed down to the road. Stuck in the middle of a resurfacing operation, we decided that it would be silly not to get the bus that appeared given that it was going straight to Puerto Montt....
Once in town we went to stay with Andrea's uncle Jorge in a beautiful modern apartment. Shower. Laundry. Food. Bed. Luxury.

15/12/14 : Puerto Montt - Chaitén
Mode: boat

Met up with Kevs! Lovely to see him again and share our various adventures. Bought lots of supplies to see us through the next section of the journey, then back to Tio Jorge's to pack before heading to the port. The ferry was long, boring and uneventful with uncomfortable seats and little to report. Wine on the deck and a chat about femenism before trying to bed down on the floor and catch some winks.

RUTA 5 - LA CARRETERA AUSTRAL 

16/12/14 : Chaitén - Las Termas El Amarillo (Parque Pumalín)
Mode: hitchhiking

Everyone was a bit grumpy getting up and it was a grey morning. At least we had fruit. Walked into Chaitén and out the other side to start hitching. A slow start but eventually got dropped at the entrance to Las Termas. Started the painstaking 5km walk through the park but thankfully some yankees in a pickup had the bright idea to take up our backpacks. Shortly after we followed in a pickup with some locals. There was technically no camping at the site so we found an abandoned campsite a little further up and headed to the baths with wine and chocolate to finally relax a bit. Ahhhh.

17/12/14 : Las termas - La Junta
Mode: hitchhiking

Walking down wasn´t so bad... And it was sunny. Shortly after reaching the road, a local bus driver took pity on us and took us to Villa Santa Lucia for free. We were there for a while... Plus the road was being surfaced, meaning it would be closed from 13:00-17:00 every afternoon. Worrying... But fortunately a bus full of road workers was passing through and took us another x kms up to Villa Vanguardia... 5 hrs dragged by. At least it was sunny.
We decided the 7.30pm was late enough, time to pitch the tent and give in. At 7.25pm, we got lucky with a lorry driver, squeezing all 4 of us, plus backpacks into the cabin to take us to La Junta. Hurrah!

18/12/14 : La Junta - Lago Verde
Mode: hitchhiking

Woke up to rain. Hello Patagonia. Said rain had also caused a landslide further down the Carretera meaning that the road South was closed and all transport cut off. After a lot of to-ing and fro-ing, waiting in the rain, waiting for chips, drying in a friendly cafe and more walking about in the rain, we were still no closer to getting anywhere and beginning to worry about the prospect of spending Christmas on the road. Then Omar and Fabio stopped and anounced they were headed to Lago Verde, so we jumped on board. The first 30mins was great - we were finally headed somewhere! The second was spent in awe of the storm we were experiencing. The third was cold, wet, and silent. 70kms later, we didn't hesitate when we were offered a 3 bed cabaña between 6. 

There was no electricity, but there was a wood stove, a shower, and a gas cooker. More than adequate for good old fashioned fun and camaradery. The rain didn't let up much, but Saturday was the anniversary of the town (84yrs), and so naturally, they were going to BBQ ten lambs for the townspeople. All with wine, dancing, bingo and various other fun thrown in. All for free!

21/12/14 : Lago Verde - Ventisquero Colgante (Puyuhuape)
Mode: hitchhiking

Sunday morning we loaded up the pick-up bright and early, hangovers and all and headed south on the newly repaired road. Arriving around lunchtime to go see a hanging glacier. A few short hours trek and some amazing views. A nap on the beach, then a few hours of hitching in vain before wildcamping by the road, a little way off from the campsite opposite. Lol.

22/12/14 : Ventisquero Colgante - Coyhaique
Mode: hitchhiking

An early start in the drizzle and breakfast in the pan - taking turns to eat each sponful - proved to be worth it when we flagged down a pickup headed for Coyhaique. A 20 minute traffic light proved ample time to arrange ourselves so that Andrea and I got seats and the boys layered up in the back. Weather and scenery of all kinds made for an eventful journey, but we made it to town in time for a delicious lunch. Finally some home comforts and a comfortable bed. All in time for Christmas.